Grasse - perfume making

The approach to Grasse doesn't really give any clue as to its leading role in the world of perfume and scent. I imagined a golden citadel surrounded by lush fields of lavender and roses, plus of course, an overwhelming smell of flowers. To be honest though Grasse seems pretty much like any other rather unattractive industrial town with lots of superstores scarring the outskirts. I mentioned before that you can't park a campervan in Grasse, so I took the bus (see Cannes entry) which drops you off right in the centre. It's in the old town that you get a flavour of the pretty Grasse, the one that's associated with perfume production. Vintage adverts on the walls bear testament to Grasse's elegant and sophisticated past.

Grasse was originally a tanning town, famous for its leather goods. But given the natural abundance of Provencale flowers available locally and the town's strong trade links, it also developed a leading reputation for scenting leather - particularly gloves. And so Grasse's role as a perfume-making mecca developed. There are several production houses still based in the town. I visited the rather lovely old Fragonard factory which dates back to 1926 (there are more modern production houses on the outskirts) and learned about this history of perfume making. The tour is free as they know that you're likely to be tempted into buying something at the end - yep, of course I did! It's also rather Willy Wonka-ish, with the processes simplified and theme-parked somewhat. Nonetheless, it's an entertaining (and fragrant) way to spend 45 minutes and there's a good collection of historical items associated with perfume production on display too.

You do get the urge to be refined in Grasse - there are some beautiful mansions housing free museums. The garden of the museum all about Provence's history is a good spot for a selfie!

The Fragonard brand has somewhat overtaken the town. Inside another beautiful house is a small but perfectly formed collection of costumes and jewellery from the formerly influential Arles region put together by Hélène Costa who's closely associated with Fragonard. Again this is free to visit, and is very well curated. You get an informed and analysis of the role of Provençale fashion from the 18th to the start of the 20th centuries as well as some wonderful examples of the clothes themselves.

Back in the Fragonard clothes and interiors stores (more branding) you can see how the textile craft techniques used on these regional clothes in the past have influenced Fragonard's stylish offering today. Embroidery, needlepoint detail, quilting, colour choices, all bear witness to the techniques of the past. The prices are pretty reasonable too, which means I doubt they are produced in France....

I love these sorts of techniques and how they're adapted for modern living.  My mind started whirring with ideas for a Mary Jane range using textile craft skills too. Well, you never know! My first design is sketched out on the right. Orders to maryjanemakes.com please!

Cannes glam on the cheap!

I may like wild swimming, but as my friends know, I also need a large slug of glamour to top up my zest for life. Thus after my adventures in the Alpes-Maritimes I headed down to the French Riviera to Cannes. Now of course I can't afford to stay in Cannes in a luxury hotel (or even a basic one),  so instead Bambi and I made the 'canny' decision (actually it was just pure luck) to stay in a campsite called La Paoute near Grasse. The reason I ended up in this lovely campsite was that unbeknownst to me, campervans can't park in Grasse and nor are they meant to go into the centre of the town. I discovered this after going round and round in the boiling heat and being beeped at over and over again by French drivers with their upturned noses well out of joint. Anyway, as it happens, I found La Paoute, 5km from Grasse, in my Aire Du Campingcar book. Not only is it a great campsite with roomy spots surrounded by olive trees for only 13 euros a night (I'm still not in high season), but it also has a proper-sized swimming pool and a lovely welcoming team, including a British guy who does the food at the bar should you choose not to not cook for yourself.

Much to my delight I also discovered that from the campsite you can take the bus from the end of the road to both Grasse and Cannes for just 1.50 euros each way. Such is the wealth of this part of France that it can subsidise bus fares quite merrily. It's 40 minutes to Cannes door to door, and so this girl, much in need of some sophistication,  hopped on the bus!

One expense I chose to indulge in was to pay 10 euros for one of those mini tourist trains that takes you around the well-known sites of the town and throws in a bit of history too. I was really glad I did this as I was able to sit back and gaze at the old world glamour of the famous hotels built in the 30's along the glitzy La Croisette without lifting a finger or indeed a pied! Apparently, the twin cupolas of the Carlton are modelled on a pair of very pert breasts. Fancy! All the film stars in the world have stayed at these hotels. I will stay there too of course - one day!

It may sound crass. But I really wanted to SMELL THE MONEY in Cannes. And I did. The yachts make you choke in their over-indulgence and the beautiful people are suitably kept apart in their private beaches. Luckily, you can use the public beaches too for free. Which of course I very happily did.

No visit to Cannes would be complete without a glimpse of the red carpet at the Palais des Festivals et des Congres. I'm looking forward to when my film director brother Anthony Baxter gets a screening here which I know he will at some point.

Also well worth seeing is the old town of Le Suquet which was once a sleepy fishing village before it became the focus of so much glitz. There's a great view from the Notre Dame church. Oh, and a road called St Antoine full of cute places to eat. I admit, I did splash out on a delicious meal and half a bottle of Sancerre. Well why not? Why else did I slog my guts out on the BBC's foreign planning desk if not to be able to indulge in a little luxury from time to time on my hols!